20. Kusa downhill on Troglav mountain.JPG

5. Memorial water fountain.JPG


MTB Serbia - still wild and free! A Brit “gone bush” takes an amateur look at mountain biking in this unexplored European country.

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    Serbia Bike Trek 2008: Day Two, loop around Kaona

    Distance travelled: 61km

    Total climb: 1050m

    Full gallery

    8. Flat but high_s.JPGAs if to make up for yesterday’s short ride, today was set to be a more epic one, as we attempted to make a big loop to the south of the village of Kaona where we were camped. We had set off on this trip without preprogramming a route into the GPS and merely following it as we had done last year. There is something to be said for both approaches - in the first you sit down with topographical maps and a program like OziExplorer and plot every twist and turn of the route you fancy taking, in our case usually trying to find a way through some interesting terrain and avoiding tarmac. This way you are sure 95% of the time where you are and where to turn and you can concentrate on enjoying the ride.

    The other approach is to plot perhaps only a few waypoints into the GPS based on the rough area where you are planning to ride, and taking maps with you. Then there is no predefined route and you have to find your way through using some basic guidelines: avoiding cutting those contour lines (i.e. making unnecessary climbs or descents) and following ridges round (there’s almost always a road, humans don’t change their habits), and using the waypoints just to make sure you are vaguely on-track.

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    6. Charcoal kiln_s.JPG

    Burning coals

    So this we did through this pleasant rolling land, where a key local industry seems to be charcoal-making - that’s what this oven on the left is for (I know what some of the more adventurous MTBers are thinking!) - and the smoke wreathes passing bikers in spooky fashion.

    We climbed up to the village of Gornji Dubac, where refreshment was had in a “hunters’ lodge” (lovački dom) and there was fairly recent photographic evidence of a number of wolves having been shot, still a manly pursuit in Serbia unfortunately. Then there was a descent to Donji Dubac, all the way enjoying a great view, especially of Čemerno, the range that we are planning to tackle tomorrow.

    5. Worth it for the view_s.JPG

    Losing our bottle

    At some point we lost our bottle and, fearing that we were going to be late back to camp, we eschewed a potentially more scenic route through the hills, conscious of our facility for getting lost. You have to take these decisions on these trips - if you don’t know the terrain you could really be asking for trouble and this is especially true of “short-cuts” which have got us in a mess more than once!

    So after repairing Rob’s puncture (get some decent nobbies Rob!) we headed straight for the tarmac and basically repeated quite a long section we had ridden the previous day.

    16. Tolisnica camp spot_s.JPG

    On to Tolišnica

    Then it was back to camp, into the Niva and on to Tolišnica, a tiny village in the foothills of the Čemerno range, where we found a great camp spot, one of the best of the trip.

    What makes a good camping spot? I realised we had different philosophies about this. For Vlada for example, it was just somewhere comfortable where you can pitch a tent, you have the owner’s permission and you can get moving quickly in the morning, having eaten a bite of dry bread.

    I dunno, I’ve got the this childish notion evidently, where there is no camp without a fire and something hot and cooked (or burned to a crisp). Also, I like it to be somewhere relatively wild, where the neighbours aren’t going to be popping round every 5 minutes (though there were a few here!) That and drinking water, and you have the perfect camp spot!

    Well, it’s off to bed, as the pitter-patter of rain begins to be heard on Rob’s Mickey-Mouse tent (HOW did we end up bringing this thing?!) and we think about our journey onto Čemerno tomorrow.

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    Popularity: 8% [?]

    Posted on June 10th, 2008 by markowe
    Filed under: MTB Serbia (All), Serbia Bike Trek! | No Comments »

    MTB Serbia update

    2. Off for a quick ride around_s.JPGWell, I must break my radio silence and just let you know what I am up to. If you were hoping to follow our adventures mountain-biking round Serbia you will have been disappointed, as after Day One’s entry, Kaona - warming up in the lowlands, my phone (a by-now increasingly hated HP 514 voice messenger) refused to continue to send email updates to the blog.

    So here’s the plan - I will post the missing daily reports over the next couple of weeks, more or less in the form I wrote them on the road, and you pretend you are reading a live report!

    Just to summarise, we had a great tour round Serbia, notching up some 300km - it perhaps wasn’t quite as epic as last year’s “trek”, but we saw a lot more variety and it was slightly more civilised. It once again confirmed my belief that Serbia has fantastic potential for mountain bike tourism, with many wild and beautiful areas to cycle around, many of them barely touched by the wheel of a bike.

    Stay tuned here for those updates, and we will definitely plan on offering a similar, but more organised trip sometime soon, because it’s high time we stopped keeping Serbia’s mountain-bike secrets to ourselves..!

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    Popularity: 10% [?]

    Posted on May 31st, 2008 by markowe
    Filed under: MTB Serbia (All) | No Comments »

    Kaona - warming up in the lowlands

    Distance covered: 62km Max. elevation: 1005m Punctures: 1 (Rob) Current location: N 43′37.55, E 20′26.25, 630m asl

    img107.jpg

    Today was a chance to get ourselves warmed up in the relatively civilised lowlands with a big ridge ride in a circle south of Kaona. Here the peaks reach a mere 1250m in height and the trail around 1000m at its highest point. Round here there is plenty of evidence of human beings - most of the farms are inhabited the year round, which is often not the case once you get higher up. Also we hit tarmac several times so made quick progress with some great views of rolling countryside, perfect for a rest after some tough climbing and rough trails to negotiate on our first day. This ride is different to last year’s - this time we do not have the entire route mapped out on the GPS which we can just follow, but only have rough waypoints saved, plus the printed topo maps, so there is a lot more guesswork and negotiation about the route. However, we managed to navigate our way through the hills, hitting the tarmac early if anything (we’d have preferred to do more cross-country but got jumpy about the time), and since we had made a good early start and got back to camp in plenty of time we loaded the bikes onto the Niva and set off along some hair-raising tracks to try to reach our next goal - Tolisnica - which will be our base for the next two days, and from where we can tackle the much more daunting mountain range of Cemerno. Tolisnica is much more isolated, very few locals but somewhere to wash - an ice-cold stream, the sound of which will also help lull us to sleep after a good, tiring first day. Morning postscript: in the end it was the pitter-patter of rain and and the crash of thunder that lulled us. I don’t know how, but the Mickey Mouse tent held out and we are dry as a bone and raring to go, with the 1600m high ridge of Cemermno to conquer today.

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    Popularity: 13% [?]

    Posted on May 20th, 2008 by markowe
    Filed under: MTB Serbia (All) | 1 Comment »

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